Perched on a basalt cliff on the rugged coast of Northern Ireland, Dunluce Castle is an imposing ruin that dominates the horizon of County Antrim. Isolated by its steep cliffs and surrounded by the waters of the Atlantic, Dunluce has been, over the centuries, a symbol of power, a strategic refuge, a home to influential clans and families, and finally, a mysterious and majestic ruin that continues to attract the attention of travelers and curious onlookers from around the world.

The castle, known in Irish as Dún Libhse, has a rich and complex history dating back to the 13th century. Although it is now in ruins, its past is filled with tales of conquest, betrayal, ghosts, and tragedies. This impressive stronghold, situated between the towns of Portballintrae and Portrush, about 2 miles from the famous Giant’s Causeway, is only accessible via a narrow bridge that connects it to the mainland, reinforcing the sense of isolation and power that has characterized its existence over time.

The original castle was built in the 13th century by Richard Óg de Burgh, an influential Irish noble who controlled much of Ulster. Over the centuries, Dunluce passed through the hands of several powerful families. It was in 1513 when the fortress was first documented under the possession of the McQuillan family, who proclaimed themselves the Lords of the Route. This family built two large round towers on the east side of the castle, which still survive as witnesses to their reign.

Dunluce castle
A bridge is the only access to the castle. Credit: nahlik / depositphotos.com

During the 16th century, the McQuillans lost two significant battles, marking the decline of their influence. The MacDonnell family, of Scottish origin, took control of the castle and made it the seat of their clan. Sorley Boy MacDonnell, leader of the MacDonnell clan, consolidated his power by pledging allegiance to Queen Elizabeth I of England, allowing him to retain the castle and continue expanding and fortifying it. Under his leadership, the castle adopted elements of Scottish architectural style, which are reflected in the details of its walls and internal structures.

One of the most famous legends associated with the building is, of course, that of a woman dressed in white who, according to local tradition, was sighted repeatedly near the castle. According to the stories, this figure appeared at dusk, walking along the cliffs or the shoreline.

Although initial reports of the ghost were taken lightly, over time more people claimed to have seen the mysterious woman, until a member of the McQuillan family attempted to speak with her, at which point the sightings abruptly ceased—what a coincidence.

Dunluce castle
Photograph of the castle taken at the end of the 19th century. Credit: United States Library of Congress / Public domain / Wikimedia Commons

But beyond the legends, the castle was also the scene of real tragic events. At some point, part of the castle’s kitchen collapsed into the sea during a storm, almost completely falling apart. According to legend, the only survivor was a young kitchen helper who happened to be standing in a corner that did not plummet into the void. This event, though often told as an anecdote, reflects the dangerous environment in which the castle was built and the vulnerability of those who lived there.

There is no other castle in the world in such an extraordinary situation. The rock is a great cubic block that has separated from the coast and is surrounded on all sides by waves and breakers. On the landward side, there is a chasm, crossed by the remains of a wooden bridge. The top of the rock is almost flat, though the sides are so steep that even a swallow would struggle to climb them. The entire summit is covered with ruins, towers, houses, and masonry up to the edge, like a beer glass with foam.

J.G. Kohl, Travels in Ireland

One of the most notable moments in the castle’s history occurred in 1588, when one of the ships of the Spanish Armada, the galley La Girona, wrecked near Dunluce. The wreckage was recovered by the MacDonnells, who used the ship’s cannons to strengthen the castle’s defenses. The sale of the recovered treasure also enabled significant restoration work, consolidating the family’s power and enhancing the prestige of their fortress.

Dunluce castle
View of the castle from the cliff edge. Credit: Osioni / Public domain / Wikimedia Commons

However, not everything was glorious for the MacDonnells. After the Battle of the Boyne in 1690, the family suffered a severe financial blow that led to the abandonment of the castle. Over time, the fortress was looted, and parts of it were used as building materials for nearby structures, marking the beginning of its irreversible deterioration.

Next to the castle, there once existed a prosperous town that was destroyed during the Irish Rebellion of 1641. In 2011, archaeological excavations revealed the remains of what has been called the lost town of Dunluce, built by Randal MacDonnell, the first Earl of Antrim, around 1608. The town, preceding the official colonization of Ulster, represented a notable architectural advancement for its time, including indoor latrines and a system of streets laid out in a grid.

Although only 5% of the town has been uncovered, archaeologists believe that once the exploration is completed, a much fuller understanding of life in early modern Northern Ireland could be obtained.

Dunluce castle
Panoramic view of the castle and its surroundings. Credit: Giorgio Galeotti / Wikimedia Commons

Today, the castle has transcended military and political history to become a cultural icon. Its imposing presence has inspired artists, musicians, and filmmakers worldwide. In 1973, the band Led Zeppelin included an image of the castle on the cover of their iconic album Houses of the Holy. Additionally, the castle has appeared in several films and has been the setting for numerous television productions, including scenes from the acclaimed series Game of Thrones, where it stood in for Pyke Castle on the Iron Islands.

T.O. Russell, in his 19th-century travel guide, remarked that from the coastal road, Dunluce looks absolutely disappointing because the road is as high, or even higher, than the castle itself. But seen from a boat at sea or from the base of the cliffs by the road, it constitutes the grandest and most impressive view of a ruined Viking fortress that can be seen in Europe.

Dunluce Castle is considered a protected monument under the care of the Northern Ireland Environment Agency, which works to preserve what remains of its structure and maintain the site for future generations. Though much of the castle is in ruins, its atmosphere remains powerful, attracting those who seek to better understand the region’s rich history or simply admire the majestic beauty of the Antrim coast.

This article was first published on our Spanish Edition on October 16, 2024: Dunluce, el espectacular castillo irlandés totalmente rodeado de acantilados

SOURCES

Gary Prost, The United Kingdom’s Natural Wonders

T. O. Russell, Beauties and Antiquities of Ireland

Johann Georg Kohl, Travels in Ireland

Tourism Ireland, Descubre el histórico castillo de Dunluce

Wikipedia, Castillo de Dunluce

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