The Portara is one of the most iconic monuments on the Greek island of Naxos, located in the Cyclades. This gigantic marble gateway, which stands on a small peninsula facing the city of Naxos, is all that remains of an ambitious architectural project: a temple (never completed) dedicated to the god Apollo, at the very spot where tradition says Theseus abandoned Ariadne during his flight from Crete, and where Dionysus later built her a palace.

The construction of the temple began in the 6th century BC during the reign of the tyrant Lygdamis of Naxos. This ruler sought to consolidate his power over the Cyclades by creating a temple of monumental scale. His idea was to surpass the Temple of Apollo on Delos, a sacred island and religious center for Apollo worship in the Aegean. Thus, the plan for his temple on Naxos had colossal dimensions of 57.5 by 26.5 meters, nine times larger than that of Delos.

However, Lygdamis was deposed in 524 BC by a Spartan army, and with his fall, construction was abruptly halted. From that point on, no one showed any interest in completing the work, leaving the temple unfinished.

The Portara is the only thing left standing of the unfinished temple of Apollo on Naxos.
The Portara is the only thing left standing of the unfinished temple of Apollo on Naxos. Credit: Holger Uwe Schmitt / Wikimedia Commons

Over time, the remains of the construction were plundered and used as a quarry for other buildings in the region. Nevertheless, the Portara, the monumental entrance to the temple, remained standing, possibly due to its enormous size and weight, making its dismantling a titanic task.

The Portara is built from Naxos marble, extracted from the Flerio quarries, located about 10 kilometers from the city. It stands 5.95 meters high and 3.65 meters wide, and is composed of two enormous jambs and an upper lintel, all carved from a single block of marble, each weighing approximately 20 tons.

The lintel is somewhat lighter than the jambs, though still colossal. Despite its apparent sturdiness, the Portara reveals signs of its unfinished state, such as small protuberances that were used to facilitate the transport of the marble blocks and were not removed in the final construction process.

A narrow seawall connects the old island where the temple is located to the main island.
A narrow seawall connects the old island where the temple is located to the main island. Credit: Balate Dorin / depositphotos.com

One of the most curious architectural elements of the Portara is its elevated threshold, which is 1.20 meters above the base level of the temple. According to archaeologist Gottfried Gruben, who has extensively studied this monument, this suggests that there was originally a narrow staircase leading to the temple’s interior, giving the entrance a ceremonial and dramatic character. This type of design is comparable to other ancient temples dedicated to Apollo, such as the one in Didyma, famous for its oracle.

Archaeological investigations have revealed that the design of the temple underwent at least one major modification during its construction. Originally, the temple began construction around 550-540 BC, but around 530 BC, it was decided to rotate the plan of the building 180 degrees.

The exact reasons for this change are unclear, but such architectural adjustments were relatively common in large projects of antiquity, where political, economic, or religious circumstances could alter the original plans.

The Portàra is today one of the main tourist attractions of Naxos, and a symbol of the city.
The Portàra is today one of the main tourist attractions of Naxos, and a symbol of the city. Credit: Holger Uwe Schmitt / Wikimedia Commons

Although the temple was never completed, the Portara has withstood the passage of time. Its location on the Palatia peninsula (which was an island when construction began), right at the entrance to the port of Naxos and over the remains of a Cycladic settlement from the 3rd millennium BC, offers a spectacular view for both locals and tourists.

Access to the Portara is via a narrow causeway that connects the peninsula to the main island, but on windy days this path can be covered by sea waves, making the arrival at the Portara even more impressive.

Today, the Portara is one of Naxos’ main tourist attractions, especially at sunset. At this time of day, the setting sun’s light filters through the portal, framing the sky and sea in a fascinating visual display. The sight of the white marble glowing against the deep blue sky or the warm orange of the setting sun makes this monument a must-see for those looking to understand the history and natural beauty of the island.

This article was first published on our Spanish Edition on September 25, 2024: La colosal Portára de Naxos es todo lo que queda del que iba a ser el mayor templo del Egeo

SOURCES

Νίκος Ζερβονικολάκης, Πορτάρα

Gottfried Gruben, Max Hirmer, Albert Hirmer, Griechische Tempel und Heiligtümer

Martin Lambertz, The temple of Apollo on Naxos – Two planning phases in detail

Wikipedia, Templo de Apolo (Naxos)

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