In the heart of the rugged landscape of Hardangervidda, a vast mountainous plateau in Norway, a group of archaeologists, on foot and carrying tools, have retraced the steps of ancient travelers by exploring a historic route known as Nordmannsslepa. This investigation is part of a broader project on food culture in the Middle Ages, led by the University of Oslo.
The Nordmannsslepa, an ancient trail that crosses the imposing Hardangervidda, was a crucial route for those who, centuries ago, needed to traverse these mountains. According to descriptions by Professor Christopher Hansteen, a prominent 19th-century scientist, the name of the route has its origins in a curious local designation.
In a travel chronicle from 1821, Hansteen recounts how the inhabitants of a Norwegian region referred to the mountain dwellers arriving from the west as nordmenn (men of the north), since, for them, that direction represented the north. Thus, the trail, which connected western villages with the interior, came to be known as Nordmannsslepa.
Hansteen, known for his advances in geography and astronomy, embarked on a hike from Christiania (now Oslo) to Eidfjord, across the plateau, in that year. On his journey, the academic described in detail the importance of the varder, small stone structures that served to guide travelers in an era without precise maps or modern navigation systems.
These markers, still visible in some sections of the trail, were, according to Hansteen, a kind of “comforting guides” that indicated to the traveler that they were on the right path. Today, hikers can follow modern markings from the Norwegian Tourist Association, recognized by the famous red “T” that marks the trails.
During the recent excavation, archaeologists from the Museum of Cultural History (KHM) headed to Holmetjønn, a site where Hansteen mentioned finding an ancient stone cabin during his journey. There, the team uncovered not only the remains of the structure that the scientist had described, but also the remnants of an even older cabin, believed to date back to the Viking or medieval era.
The existence of these cabins in this harsh environment underscores the need for shelter that travelers faced. Norwegian medieval laws stipulated strict rules regarding the shared use of these shelters. If the weather was unfavorable and several people arrived at a cabin at the same time, a lottery had to be held to determine who would have to leave if there wasn’t enough space. Anyone who refused to comply with this mandate, if their actions resulted in the death of others, could be heavily fined. These rules reflect the harsh reality of survival in an environment where storms and cold could be deadly.
While excavating inside the cabin, the archaeologists found traces of the daily life of the travelers who occupied it. The floor was covered by a thick layer of ash, bones, and food remains, suggesting that, for centuries, those who spent the night there often threw their waste directly into the fire.
The remains indicated that these ancient travelers fed on birds, fish, and reindeer, and that, on many occasions, they burned entire bones, including the jaws of small animals, suggesting that some may have enjoyed a traditional delicacy known as smalahove, a boiled sheep’s head.
In addition to food remnants, tools related to fire, such as a flint and an iron striker dating from the Viking era, were discovered. These items offer a glimpse of ancient travelers trying to light a fire in the midst of the inhospitable plateau, just as their ancestors would have done centuries earlier.
Among the most notable findings are two well-preserved Viking arrowheads, found near the cabin entrance. These finely crafted arrowheads may have belonged to a reindeer hunter who used the cabin as a base during his expeditions.
The archaeological team, led by archaeologist Margrethe Figenschou Simonsen, views these excavations as the beginning of a long-term project. Holmetjønn and its surroundings still hold many secrets, and the researchers are convinced that further excavations could uncover more layers of history, revealing details not only about life in the Middle Ages but also about the hunters and travelers who crossed these mountains in even earlier times.
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