Researchers have discovered an ancient textile dyed with kermes (Kermes vermilio) in the Cave of the Skulls in Israel, dating back to the Middle Bronze Age.
This textile, found in the Judean Desert and made of linen and red-dyed wool, has been directly radiocarbon-dated to the Middle Bronze Age, specifically between 1954 and 1767 BCE. What makes this find unique is the use of the red dye derived from the insect Kermes vermilio, a luxurious and rare source of color in antiquity.
The research team employed advanced analytical techniques, including High-Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), to accurately identify the proportions of kermesic acid (carminic acid) in the dyed textile.
This methodology not only allowed for the determination of the presence of the dye but also confirmed that the red dye specifically came from Kermes vermilio, a scale insect that parasitizes oak trees, especially Quercus coccifera. This technique, although destructive, requires only a small sample, thus preserving the integrity of the ancient artifact.
The use of dyes derived from scale insects like Kermes vermilio was known to be a labor-intensive and costly process, suggesting that such textiles could have been symbols of status and power in ancient societies.
In ancient civilizations, the color of textiles not only reflected personal taste but also served as a non-verbal communication system indicating the social and economic status of individuals.
The source of the dyes was directly related to the economic and social capabilities of societies and was a crucial indicator in textile research for studying the role of dyeing, technological achievements, fashion, social and economic status, agriculture, and trade.
However, textiles are rare in the archaeological record due to their perishable nature and the rapid decomposition they are subject to, making their preservation in special conditions, such as those of the caves in the Judean Desert, exceptionally valuable.
The detailed analysis of this textile, despite its small size, allows researchers to trace the origin of the red color down to the species level of the insect used, a significant finding not only for its antiquity but also for what it reveals about the knowledge and technology of ancient civilizations in the management and application of natural dyes.
SOURCES
Naama Sukenik, Uri Davidovich, et al., Early evidence of an archaeological dyed textile using scale-insects: The Cave of Skulls, Israel. Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, Volume 57, September 2024, 104673. doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2024.104673
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