In the southernmost reaches of the Indian Ocean, nearly 2,500 nautical miles (4,700 kilometers) southwest of Perth and halfway between Madagascar and Antarctica (from which is separated by 1,550 kilometers), lies Australia’s tallest mountain.
This is Mawson Peak, located not on the Australian mainland but in the Territory of Heard Island and McDonald Islands, a small group of uninhabited volcanic islands, of which the nearest inhabited place is the French archipelago of Kerguelen, about 430 kilometers to the northwest.
The discovery of these islands dates back to the mid-19th century. In 1853, Captain John Heard of the American ship Oriental first sighted the largest of the islands, Heard Island, during a voyage from Boston to Melbourne. Shortly after, in 1854, Captain William McDonald aboard the Samarang discovered the islands that bear his name, located about 30 kilometers west of Heard Island.
Despite these initial sightings, it wasn’t until March 1855 that the first landing on the islands occurred when members of the crew of the ship Corinthian, commanded by Erasmus Darwin Rogers, reached an area known as Oil Barrel Point.
Over the following decades, several American whalers established temporary camps on Heard Island, with a population reaching up to 200 people. However, their indiscriminate hunting quickly decimated the seal population, forcing them to abandon the islands by around 1880.
After these early contacts, Heard Island and McDonald Islands remained largely unknown and uninhabited for several decades. It wasn’t until 1874 when a scientific expedition aboard the British ship Challenger collected the first geological and botanical data.
In the 20th century, there were some unsuccessful attempts at whaling, and in 1902, German scientist Erich von Drygalski led an expedition that conducted extensive research on the geology, flora, and fauna of Heard Island.
It wasn’t until 1947 that the first permanent scientific station was established on the islands when the Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions (ANARE) built a base at Atlas Cove on the western end of Heard Island. This base remained operational until 1955, although over the years, various scientific expeditions from Australia, the United States, and France have temporarily occupied the island.
In 1947, control over this remote territory passed from the United Kingdom to Australia, which has since administered it as an external territory. Since then, it has been home to the highest peak in the entire country (unless Mount McClintock and Mount Menzies, both in the Antarctic region claimed by Australia and only recognized by New Zealand, the United Kingdom, France, and Norway, are considered Australian territory).
Mawson Peak crowns the active volcano Big Ben on Heard Island, reaching an altitude of 2,745 meters, surpassing Mount Kosciuszko by 517 meters, the highest mountain on the Australian mainland.
The first ascent of Mawson Peak was made in 1965 by a team from the Southern Indian Ocean Expedition to Heard Island. Since then, only a few more expeditions have managed to summit this remote and challenging peak, such as those in 1983 or 2000, which involved a team from the Australian Army.
Because the volcano remains active and has erupted several times in recent years, most recently on February 2, 2016, ascents are greatly hindered. Additionally, access to Heard Island is difficult as there are no ports where ships can dock.
Beyond its altitude, Heard Island and McDonald Islands are known for being a true natural paradise. Virtually free from human influence, these pristine territories are home to a rich and varied fauna, including colonies of penguins, seals, and other seabirds. Due to their exceptional ecological value, UNESCO included them on its World Heritage List in 1997.
Situated halfway between Madagascar and Antarctica, Heard Island and McDonald Islands are strongly influenced by the Antarctic climate, with temperatures barely exceeding 4°C even in summer and hurricane-force winds blowing constantly.
Their isolation and extreme conditions have prevented any introduced plant or animal life from thriving, making them one of the few pristine island ecosystems left on the planet.
Despite their remoteness and difficult access, Heard Island and McDonald Islands have attracted increasing scientific attention in recent times. Researchers from around the world visit this remote corner of the planet to study phenomena such as glacier retreat, volcanic activity, or the dynamics of animal populations.
This article was first published on our Spanish Edition on April 16, 2024. Puedes leer la versión en español en El pico más alto de Australia está en un remoto lugar del Océano Índico, entre Madagascar y la Antártida
Sources
Mawson Peak, Heard Island (NASA Earth Observatory) | Highest Mountains (Australian Government) | Heard Island and McDonald Islands (CIA World Factbook) | Location and Geography – Heard Island and McDonald Islands (Australian Antarctic Program) | Wikipedia
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